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Apex Rebound Medium

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RRP:
$2,999.00
Your Price:
$2,799.00 (You save $200.00)
Weight:
19.00 LBS
Delivery:
$149.00 (Fixed shipping cost)





Product Description

Apex Rebound

 

If you want to introduce some new excitement into your playboating life, the Rebound will do just that.    It makes everything you are trying to do easier, and the things you are able to do bigger, faster, and more retentively.   Lightweight performance designed by someone you know will do it right.

 

SPECS:

Medium:  5’7″ Long, 26.25″ Wide, 14.25″ Tall, 56 Gallons, 18 Pounds- Weight Range- 135-190

Performance of the Rebound:

Performance related to the construction:  

Clearly the #1 reason for making an advanced composites kayak is to reduce the total weight by nearly 1/2 for a freestyle kayak.   The following is what you’ll experience:

  1. Picking up, carrying, loading, and unloading become WAY easier and more enjoyable.  You’ll be spoiled quickly, however. 
  2. Every stroke has way more effect on moving the boat.   Turning, accelerating, and doing freestyle tricks takes way less effort, and happens with way more snappiness with the same effort. 
  3. You’ll go bigger and be way more retentive.    Less weight means more air.    Less weight also means that your ends will come around much faster and you’ll complete moves with a much higher percentage and stay on waves and in holes much easier. 

The number 2 reason for composite freestyle boats is the stiffness.   A stiff hull transfers the waters energy into the boat without it flexing and dampening the effect like a plastic boat.   This means bigger air on waves and a more consistent ride.   

Performance related to the design of the Rebound:

This boat is an incremental improvement over everything I have done to date.    It is unbridled and unfettered by outside influence, and it has to put Apex on the freestyle map right out of the gate.   What does this mean?  This is the boat I would design if I only had this boat to play in, compete in, and that will work in England, Africa, USA, Canada, Asia, and your local swimming pool.  

A few things to know about its physical characteristics:

  1. Shortest Playboat ever designed. 
  2. Lightest on the market.

Flatwater-  Enough volume for big air, but low enough for ease of getting vertical for clean/super cleans, etc.   Shorter length means the ends come through quickly.    Loops are easier to throw and finish.  Slicey tips have low water resistance for less energy.   

Waves-  

  1. Fast/er- so short but so fast?  How?   That I am not explaining here, but it delivers.   
  2. Loose- hull tweaks make it snappy for spinning around and staying on waves, even the slow ones.   
  3. Easy to Take Off the water-  Fast and lifting off easily don’t always go together.   Less Rocker or more rocker effect performance for take offs, but it isn’t the only thing.   Width of ends, side walls, length of boat, etc. effect it dramatically as well.    You’ll love how easily you can get air, even on the small waves. 
  4. Retentive and forgiving-  Weight does place into this, of course, but so does the design.   Short and centered volume provides less surface area to catch and pull you downstream of the wave.    Volume holds you on, and the forgiving sidewalls, stiffness in the hull (plastic boats flex on landing and provide more drag off of the wave), and the speed of the boat to start with assures you spend more time surfing and less time in the eddy. 
  5. Carving- the 1/2 length thruster chines, combined with the rocker profile and sidewall shapes gives you more control with simple body/boat leans than any previous design.    You can carve back and forth without a paddle at more extreme angles than ever before.   This allows you to use the paddle for tricks and body control for direction.

Holes- what to expect:

  1. HUGE Air and Ease of Linking and throwing moves in one boat. 
    1. Add in ease of getting backwards into a blast without catching your stern for McNasty moves.
    2. Add in easy to engage bow edges for Phonix Monkey.
    3. Slicey Stern that is easy to control your angle and direction for lunar orbits, cartwheels, and tricky woos, and reduces force needed to pull the stern through. 
    4. Balanced bow/stern volume that makes cartwheel moves smooth and allows body to remain in one position.

Downriver Moves-

Short boat takes less water- Rebound proudly gets vertical without hitting bottom in many places that others just can’t.    This helps with Macho moves, wave wheels, pogo flips, and more. 

Shorter makes the kick flips easier to pull through without the ends catching.  

Durability, Repairs, what do expect:

#1- Carbon Fiber kayaks tend to outlast plastic boats- that is a good starting point.   This is because they can be repaired more easily, and don’t “wear out” like a plastic boat and get super soft from wear and use, or brittle from the sun.

#2- Rocks and impact effect composite boats differently, and breaks are often in different places than plastic boats due to lack of flex in the structure.

#3- it is “EASY” to fix composite boats, and not expensive to fix, but you need materials.    Having a repair kit on you or at home before you need it, takes much of the stress off of owning a composite boat.  Look for my shopping list as a blog on this website.

Where composite boats break and why:  

Simple Fact- the heavier you are the more force you’ll impact things with.    More likely to break a boat.    An 80 pound kid will struggle to break a boat, while a 280 pound person will find it much easier.   With that said, we put more material in the larger boats, but not 5 times the material.  

Freestyle kayaks:   

Looping on the bottom hard enough can break the bow.   There are two main places that they break, if you do break it.

  • Tip of the bow at point of impact.   You’ll crush and knock the outside seam off first, and then break through the hull layers most likely and create a crack.   This area is reinforced to take abuse, but some rocks are sharp and water powerful and sometimes you hit too hard to not do some damage.    Repair of the bow is not difficult typically.   It is usually done on the outside of the boat, making it easy to access and the curve of the bow makes laying material down smoothly easy.
  • 1/2 way back on the deck-  when the bow hits really hard and sticks, water pressure on the deck and body momentum tries to bend the bow up and the deck buckles slightly creating a stress crack seen on the outside of the boat.   Again, an easy fix, and we reinforced this area to prevent this break, but it can still happen.

Hull Breaks from hard hits on rocks with your butt- River running/boofing onto a rock.

  • A hard sharp rock hit when going down river can cut into and crack a hull if hit the hit is hard enough and you weigh enough.    This happens with a plastic boat, too, but since the composite boat is stiff, it is more likely to break.   We reinforced the entire hull under the seat and surrounding areas.   Boat can be fixed from the inside or outside or both if you hurt it.   Most freestyle kayaks will last many years without breaking there due to river running.
  • Hull breaks from big wave surfing-   BIG Waves equal BIG impacts with your full body weight landing from high above the water into FAST hard water.       Overflexing the hull to the point of it delaminating.    This depends on the lay-up.  PVC foam delaminates or crack in this situation and “soric” or other filler layers that soak up resin have other issues.    Using Vertical walls in the bow and stern help, and so does a heavy enough lay-up.     These forces are not ever experienced by a kayak in any other venue other than boofing a very big waterfall, over and over again.    So, if you are doing a lot of BIG wave surfing, you may want an extra full layer of material over the foam, vertical walls, and some local reinforcements that are not necessary for 99% of the paddlers. 

Cockpit rim, and stern deck behind cockpit rim:

If you sit on the cockpit rim and are heavy, it is possible to break it.  It shouldn’t happen, but if you put all of your weight in a small area, it could crack it.    Try to put your hands on the boat, not the rim, or at least some of the weight on the boat.  Don’t fall hard onto the rim with your butt- sit behind the rim to get in if you are over 200 pounds.    For the Large and XL we’ll put a vertical wall in the stern to support it.    For Medium and smaller sizes, it really isn’t needed.   

Stern corners-  If you cartwheel a lot in shallow water and hit the corners enough, you’ll wear through the Kevlar outside seem and eventually break the corners.    It could be 200+ hits or one really big one, or never.   Depends on you.    Again, easy to fix area.

If you look at kayakers with carbon freestyle kayaks, you’ll notice that they have their boats longer than they do the plastic versions.     Eventually you’ll have some “character” built into them with some patches, but they can be in your family for as long as you’ll keep them going.


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